Every skincare product has an ingredient list called the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). These labels are listed in descending order of concentration. The first 5 ingredients make up the bulk of the formula.
Here's how to decode what you're actually buying.
The Anatomy of a Skincare Formula
Ingredients 1–3: Usually water (Aqua), a humectant (Glycerin), and an emollient (a fatty alcohol or ester). These form the base.
Ingredients 4–8: The active ingredients — these are what you should be paying attention to. Is Niacinamide listed 4th or 14th? Position matters.
Ingredients 9 onwards: Preservatives, stabilisers, fragrances, colourants, and thickeners. Often necessary but not what you're paying for.
Common Names Decoded
| INCI Name | What It Is |
|---|---|
| Aqua | Water |
| Glycerin | Humectant — draws moisture in |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Water-soluble form of Hyaluronic Acid |
| Niacinamide | Vitamin B3 — pores, oil, brightness |
| Tocopherol | Vitamin E — antioxidant |
| Butylene Glycol | Solvent/humectant |
| Carbomer | Thickening agent |
| Phenoxyethanol | Preservative |
| Parfum / Fragrance | Potential irritant — fragrance blend |
| CI 77891 | Titanium Dioxide — sunscreen/pigment |
Red Flags on Labels
- Fragrance / Parfum high on the list: Common sensitiser
- Alcohol Denat. (SD Alcohol) high on the list: Drying and irritating
- No preservative listed: Likely unstable formula — check packaging
The Concentration Question
Brands rarely disclose concentrations — but position + context helps. If Niacinamide is shown in a 10% claim but sits 12th on the ingredient list (after a long list of thickeners), question it.