The word "anti-ageing" gets thrown around on every product. But skin ageing has specific, well-understood mechanisms and there are specific ingredients that address each one.
How Skin Ages
Skin ageing happens through two pathways:
Intrinsic ageing — biological, driven by genetics and time. Collagen production drops ~1% per year after age 25. Elastin fibres become less resilient. Cell turnover slows.
Extrinsic ageing — driven by UV exposure (80% of visible skin ageing), pollution, smoking, and lifestyle. This is entirely preventable.
The Three Ingredients With Clinical Evidence
1. Retinol (Vitamin A) The most studied anti-ageing ingredient in dermatology. Stimulates collagen synthesis, accelerates cell turnover, and fades hyperpigmentation. Start at 0.025%, increase gradually. Always use at night with SPF the next morning.
2. Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) Protects existing collagen from oxidative stress, inhibits melanin production, and works synergistically with SPF. Use 10–20% stabilised Vitamin C in the morning.
3. Peptides Signal proteins that instruct skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin. Gentler than Retinol, making them ideal for sensitive skin or Retinol beginners. Matrixyl 3000 and Argireline are the best-studied variants.
When to Start
- Teens–Mid 20s: SPF + Vitamin C. Prevention is the cheapest anti-ageing treatment.
- Late 20s: Add Retinol 2–3x per week.
- 30s+: Introduce Peptides. Increase Retinol frequency. Consider incorporating Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides.
For Indian Skin Specifically
Hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone — not lines — are the primary signs of ageing in Indian skin. Vitamin C, Niacinamide, and SPF are therefore the most impactful interventions for our skin type.